Hydraulic Lift Valve

[G-Nest Member Find all posts View Profile Close G-Nest]

How much pressure by hand is needed to operate a well working factory hydraulic lift on a 1450? Mine seems overly difficult, but having never operated another cub with hyd lift maybe I’m wrong. To get the valve to open/engage I have to put probably 30-40lbs of force on the handle.

A little background on the tractor:

It is a 1450 with power steering out of a 3000 series. So I did move the mounting position of the lift valve a bit- perhaps I got geometry messed up with linkage but it seems like more than that.

Also the pump relief pressure was shimmed up to about 900.

Has as a loader that is also running off the tractors pump, these valves move extremely easy.

I think that’s all the background information needed, but my main question is-how do I make this easier aside from making my lift handle longer. Do these valves get sticky over time and need to be rebuilt?

[J-Mech Owner Find all posts View Profile Close J-Mech]

For some reason, the QL valves move really hard. That 1650 I got is just like that. My first thought was, damn that moves hard... but this isn't the first one I've been around. Obviously, making the handle longer would help, but I think the real issue is the spring in the valve. I bet if you took a QL valve apart and a valve from an 82 series tractor you would find they changed springs. I'll do some digging tonight, but they did switch to a different supplier for the valves I think in the QL tractors, but may have been during the 82 series. I'll dig some more as soon as I can.

[G-Nest]

Interesting notes. I’ll take a look too. Thanks for the info

[J-Mech Owner Find all posts View Profile Close J-Mech]

Ok. Did some checking. The original valve offered on the QL tractors and early 82 series was a Cessna. It was later switched to a Victor unit. I think that is the difference.

Tanner, you might be able to take it apart and put a less stiff spring in it if you so desire. (Not "might". You can, just if you want to do it or deal with it.) I'd do that before reworking the handle.

[G-Nest Member Find all posts View Profile Close G-Nest]

Thanks for the info as always Jonathan! I picked up a 1650 as a parts machine it is missing a bunch of parts but the handle is still there, and it’s significantly longer. I think the 1650 is later model than my 1450 so maybe this is how they addressed too stiff of a spring? Also the connection isn’t a pin going through the shaft, it is a bolt on clamp. Learning every day....
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[dodge trucker]

Speaking of "1650 for parts" I just gutted one. It was missing the engine plus a few parts to begin with. using the rear end, ported hydro and everything pertaining to the hyd. lift on a 129 that I have. One thing I could use would be one of those links that connects the lift handle/ rod to the valve, the one off of the 1650 that I parted wasn't too good, and is something that I will need for the transplant.

[G-Nest Member Find all posts View Profile Close G-Nest]

I ended up breaking and loosing part of that link on my 1450 so I had to make a “master link” out of some flat stock and a couple bolts. But plan to use the one off the 1650 for my 1450. Sorry I can’t help you. I can take some measurements if that helps?