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Dual stick 1450

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    Dual stick 1450

    Hey, need some help. I dug out the 1450 and put a deck on it today.

    while mowing relatively tall grass it did well at first, but as I continued on, it started to seem to run short on power even in lighter grass. The deck spins freely, with very little drag. I have noticed that the machine has not been as powerful since a guy messed with it a few years back. In order to compensate for lack of power it seems he adjusted my full throttle setpoint very high. Sounds like the thing is going to explode when its wot.

    I have brand new OEM iso mounts to put on this thing, so I'd like to try and correct the issues above while I'm in there if anyone has an idea as to wtf is going on.

    also, any pointers on how to correctly install and adjust the iso mounts to get optimal vibration isolation. Cradle mod has already been done btw.

    tia 20190811_193207.jpg

    #2
    If you have OEM ISO mounts, the best way to install and adjust them is described in the service manual for the tractor. Follow that procedure and you should be happy.


    As far as your low power problem, you are kind of vague.... it could be anything from a dirty air filter to a worn out engine. I would make sure that the engine is tuned up, and the governor is in adjustment. It may not be opening the throttle all the way. On a 14hp in a QL, I would check to see if it has the right carb on it. There is a small valve and big valve K321. The small valve used a #26 carb, large valve a #30. If the engine has been replaced at some point it may have the wrong carb. I think (pretty certain) the engine switch was made during the QL run of tractors. No way to know which engine you have without pulling the head. Wrong carb on either motor will kill it for power. Make sure the carb is clean, as dirt in the main will limit fuel and power. I'm not going to cover all 27 things I can think of that could make it low on power..... start with basic tune up procedures and we'll go from there. You need to check RPM's on the engine and make sure they are between 3600 and 3800.
    ​​​​​
    ~Jonathan
    Oblong, Illinois

    Just because it's old, doesn't mean it's obsolete!

    I've got a lot of Cubs in the barn....but I have more implements/attachments!

    Comment


      #3
      I'm vague intentionally, for I dont really kno where to start. I guess I'll give it a tune job, and what not. The motor has been overhauled before I got the thing. It used to have seemingly alot of torque and lugging power. But it doesn't have that anymore.


      where do you recommend getting good quality tune up kit?

      Comment


        #4
        Sorry I hadn't gotten back to this.

        I wouldn't necessarily change many parts...... more like I'd go through and check everything out.

        Here's what I'd do:

        *File/clean the points and check the timing. (More on this below)
        *Check to make sure the carb is clean and getting fuel. Pull the bowl off and see if there is crud in it and check the fuel flow while the bowl is off.
        *Clean and check the spark plug, and plug wire for corrosion or damage.
        *Clean and check the engine ground strap
        *Clean and check the condenser mount. It grounds through the base, and can't do it's job if it isn't grounded good.
        *Check to make sure that the governor arm is tight on the shaft, and properly adjusted so it can open the carb up all the way. (Governor arm adjustment procedure in the K series service manual if you aren't familiar on how to do it.)
        *Check to make sure it doesn't have a blown head gasket for some reason.

        On the points and condenser: (Here's the "more below".) Start it up with the cover off the points and see if they are arcing really bad. Should just be a minimal little tiny spark if any while running. If it looks like a spark plug, either the condenser isn't grounded good, or has a bad connection at the coil, or it has failed. This is why the engine ground strap is also important. If the condenser can't do it's job, it will make it lose power and be doggy like you describe.

        The last thing is to check out is that high idle, no load speed. Should be no more than 3800 RPM. I like to be able to see just over 3600 with the deck on, but under no load. (Not mowing.) If you don't have a way to check RPM, then buy a photo tach at harbor freight, or online. Also, a lot of multimeters have a function to check RPM but it takes a clamp for the spark plug wire. Some timing lights also read RPM. I have like 3 or 4 ways to check RPM. Sometimes more than one way can catch an inconsistency. But you really need to make sure it isn't overrevving. That will tear up that K in a hurry, or could cause some other really bad things if it's set above like 4K RPM. Check it out.
        ~Jonathan
        Oblong, Illinois

        Just because it's old, doesn't mean it's obsolete!

        I've got a lot of Cubs in the barn....but I have more implements/attachments!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by J-Mech View Post
          Sorry I hadn't gotten back to this.

          I wouldn't necessarily change many parts...... more like I'd go through and check everything out.

          Here's what I'd do:

          *File/clean the points and check the timing. (More on this below)
          *Check to make sure the carb is clean and getting fuel. Pull the bowl off and see if there is crud in it and check the fuel flow while the bowl is off.
          *Clean and check the spark plug, and plug wire for corrosion or damage.
          *Clean and check the engine ground strap
          *Clean and check the condenser mount. It grounds through the base, and can't do it's job if it isn't grounded good.
          *Check to make sure that the governor arm is tight on the shaft, and properly adjusted so it can open the carb up all the way. (Governor arm adjustment procedure in the K series service manual if you aren't familiar on how to do it.)
          *Check to make sure it doesn't have a blown head gasket for some reason.

          On the points and condenser: (Here's the "more below".) Start it up with the cover off the points and see if they are arcing really bad. Should just be a minimal little tiny spark if any while running. If it looks like a spark plug, either the condenser isn't grounded good, or has a bad connection at the coil, or it has failed. This is why the engine ground strap is also important. If the condenser can't do it's job, it will make it lose power and be doggy like you describe.

          The last thing is to check out is that high idle, no load speed. Should be no more than 3800 RPM. I like to be able to see just over 3600 with the deck on, but under no load. (Not mowing.) If you don't have a way to check RPM, then buy a photo tach at harbor freight, or online. Also, a lot of multimeters have a function to check RPM but it takes a clamp for the spark plug wire. Some timing lights also read RPM. I have like 3 or 4 ways to check RPM. Sometimes more than one way can catch an inconsistency. But you really need to make sure it isn't overrevving. That will tear up that K in a hurry, or could cause some other really bad things if it's set above like 4K RPM. Check it out.

          Awesome information. I never have known an abundance on engines. Will do all this Saturday. Thank you very much, I will report back what I found.

          Comment

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