Shorted fuel shut off Solenoid?

[Redblower]

This is the 682 with a CH18 swap, during the swap early on the motor wouldn't start, seemed like it wasn't getting fuel, it was suggested to grind the tip off of the fuel shutoff solenoid, I did but it didn't help, turned out to be something else.

This year during long runs mowing it didn't like to shut off, dieseling, tried the throw it in gear or hit the lift while turning the key off, wasn't very effective, seemed like all that dieseling couldn't be good for the motor.

So got a new solenoid and installed it, when I turned the key it the motor tried to crank then heard a couple of soft pops, turns out I pinched the solenoid wire so it must have grounded out, thinking I blew something, put a new relay in as it was cheap and easy to do.

Swapped the voltage regulator with one I had from the donor, nothing.

It doesn't click, crank or anything when I turn the key, no sounds at all, just dead.

Any idea what I could have toasted or is this just going to be a wire chase till I find what burnt?

Thanks,
Vic

[Lance Skene]

Is there an inline fuse on the batt>ignition power wire?

[Redblower]

Not that I can find, some wiring diagrams I have for the 682 show one between the amp gauge and the starter solenoid and some don't, I don't think I have one.

[J-Mech]

Fuse is below the dash on the red panel on a 682. Little black button looking thing.

[Redblower]

Dang!!!! My up close vision is crap, I checked both of those, had to take my glasses off to see the break! Sorry guys, guess I need to get these bifocals looked at.

Then I read in a 682 manual that one was for the lights and the other was for the PTO, it had a 20 amp in it, the lights have a 10 amp, is 20 amp ok for that side?

Thanks,

[J-Mech]

I don’t recall offhand what size fuse it was supposed to have. Charging system is only 15 amps, so likely a 10A fuse. You can throw a 20 in temporarily, but I’d switch it as soon as you can.

[Redblower]

That makes sense, will do.

Now for the next escapade, I decided to put that new solenoid back in after repairing the wire, took it out for a run around the property ran great got back to the barn, idled it down to cool and it stalls, hit the key and it sounds like the battery is dead, barely cranks over, noticed at this time that the amp gauge is going over the the charge side pretty far every time I turn the key on, wouldn't start, let it set and pushed it back into the barn.

Next day (this is with the new fuel shut off solenoid in) it cranks over and starts but stalls within 10 seconds, tried it several times always the same result, I'm thinking that new solenoid is bad, pulled it out, put the old one without a pentil on it in, it starts right up and runs great, amp gauge still hard to the charge side, more so the higher the rpm but it runs.

After that run I decided to try the pto switch, it goes up and engages the pto but when I let off of the switch it goes to the mid point like it should but the pto dis-engages, tried several times, same results, checked the fuses both are good, don't think it would start at all if the fuse was blown but I checked anyway.

Don't know if this is related? yesterday and today I noticed what sounds to me like some heavy sheet metal rattling tried the stethoscope all around on the motor can't hear anything different, checked what I could touch, hot at the time, with a screw driver of the pto and everything seems solid. The rattling sound doesn't sound heavy enough to be internal motor parts to me.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[J-Mech]

I don't know what you hear rattling Vic, but it sounds like either the battery is bad, or you have a bad connection that isn't letting the battery charge. Likely at the key switch. Clean and check battery connections. Clean and check the connections at the key switch. Make sure you don't have a broken wire at the ammeter too. Something is amiss.

[Redblower]

Ok, checked the connections on the key that's one big plug, checked ammeter too, took battery out and had parts store check it, said it wasn't bad, just needed a little charge, did not buy a new one, came back home put it back in checked volts at battery when running, charging at 13.5 volts, all good there, everything was normal but pto still wouldn't stay on.

Got to thinking that I swapped the voltage regulator from the donor tractor, course I never saw that run, so decided to put the original back in, Bingo, everything is working like it is supposed to, pto stays on, tossed that old regulator in the can.

Geese, what a hassle from a pinched wire, I really would like to get a fuel shut off solenoid in there that worked but I'm thinking I toasted that one? last time it was in tractor would start then die, took it out and tractor ran, it was a cheap one, $15 from amazon.

Have a hard time spending the almost $200. cub wants for one, do you have a source that you would recommend that might be better or just get another one like the last and "DON'T PINCH THE WIRE!"?

Thanks again.

[J-Mech]

Sorry Vic, I don’t have any recommendations for you where to buy one.

If it were mine, I’d probably replace the solenoid with a bolt from a different carb without the solenoid. If it still wants to diesel without it, slow the idle down until it will shut off when you turn off the key. Typically those engines idle at like 1200 RPM or more. I would buy another $15 one (or maybe 5) before I bought one for $200.

[Redblower]

Hey Jon, I'm with you there, I guess maybe I could check that idle again, it may have changed on me, it does seem like a the idle speed is a little fast but I think that's the way it has always been.

Thanks for the help!