For those of you that still visit OCC, this series of posts will be a duplicate of what you see there more or less. I posted there at the request of the owner. I took in a repair project for this winter of a Cub 1572 that belongs to Greg Rozar (CubDieselFan) of Elora TN. When Greg purchased my 782DT he asked if I would be interested in working on the 1572. The tractor is now in my shop here in NY. During the trip home, I got caught in an ice storm near Roanoke VA and ended up spending a few days at a friends house. Here's a couple pictures of the "Cubsickle"
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Shop job - 1572
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After getting the tractor home, I removed the tin work and the Kubota D600 so I could give the frame a good bath. It was especially nasty around the hydro unit and differential. After the bath, I removed the rest of the major components. Here's where we are now.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 4 photos.
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With the chassis down to basics I spent a few days on the engine, replacing all the belts and hoses, rebuilding the fan shaft, installing a new water pump and t-stat, and replacing the starter. Greg had a NOS genuine Kubota starter and wanted to use that, so an upgrade to gear reduction was not done. I did upgrade the glow plugs to new NGK units and installed the solenoid to power the glow plugs with direct battery voltage. Since the D600 had about 1300 hours on the clock, I popped the valve cover off and adjusted the valves. The exhaust valves were quite loose at nearly double the .005 -.007 called for in the shop manual. When the motor was shipshape, I gave it a fresh coat of Kubota green blue (Kubota's name for it) engine paint, part number 70000-00197 for the aerosol can. Messick's and Kumar Bros both stock it. I purchased mine off of Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-CAN-NEW-K...53.m2749.l2649
After a little detailing of the sub-frame and accessories, I assembled everything back together creating a "power pod" This is a great design IMO, easy to install with just four bolts into the subframe and bang you're done. Then its just a couple of wires, the throttle cables and the driveshaft.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
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Greg had asked me to touch up the paint on the frame under the engine while it was out, so after a little sanding and a good cleaning with lacquer thinner, I got some paint on it. I'm using Valspar Tractor and Implement paint in the aerosol cans part # 5339-25. The paint is dam near a perfect match and if this chassis weren't sun faded, it would be spot on. I've had really great luck using the Valspar paint, having done my last three with it. The paint covers well, drys quickly, and has a great shine. It doesn't have that foul odor that the Majic brand paint does either.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
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Great write up, and pictures. I like pictures.
That's a lot of progress, in a short time. Wish I could geter' done that fast.They can't all be turn key.
Make the best of each and every day.
Todd
Original's Start to Finish vid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs
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Good work Stan!
I'm not sure I agree with Greg's decision to put the OE style starter on, but it's his tractor.
Hey, feel free to invite Greg over. He's welcome here. (Maybe you already did and he isn't interested, which is also fine.)~Jonathan
Oblong, Illinois
Just because it's old, doesn't mean it's obsolete!
I've got a lot of Cubs in the barn....but I have more implements/attachments!
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Originally posted by Diesel Doc View PostNo the idler has just been cleaned up, but you can replace the pulley. It's just a standard size available through places like McMaster Carr. You would need your original to match it up by size.
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According to the parts book, the pulley is a 3.06" ID pulley.
The belt should be a 3L section by 27" length.
So you need a pulley for a 3L belt that is about 3" diameter and uses a 3/8" bolt.~Jonathan
Oblong, Illinois
Just because it's old, doesn't mean it's obsolete!
I've got a lot of Cubs in the barn....but I have more implements/attachments!
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Spent some time cleaning up the front axle and replacing the worn tie rod ends. Cub wants a ridiculous amount of money for the rod ends at between $40 - $64 EACH!! I bought these replacements from McMaster Carr with and average price of about $12 each. Big difference! I also installed new rod ends on the power steering ram, and found a bad hydraulic hose. The owner has a good one so I can keep moving. As soon as I get the frame painted, all these sub-assemblies can be hung on the new frame. THAT will be some major progress. axle1.jpegaxle2.jpegaxle3.jpeg
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