Finally got started on my 1050 tractor. Pulled the grill and side panels off & left them in the shed, then wheeled it into the garage. Naturally it had a flat rear tire. Previously I tubed both the fronts, so they held up.
I swapped the rear tires off my parts 1200, it had 8.50 turfs. I thought it odd, being the 1050 was a baseline machine, that it would have 10.50s, but anyway I switched them over. Once it's going I'll see if I want to swap back or not.
The lift handle was missing the little knob that slides to the side to float. Noted it was threaded, found a screw that would fit, threadlocked it, and installed it. Built it up with some electrical tape. I'll see how it holds up until I can find the real thing, or something better.
Pulled the fenders. It needs a pressure washing real bad, and definitely a rearend reseal. Made sure the brakes were free, and functional. Noticed the brake switch and seat switch are bypassed. Noticed it has a switch by the shifter-I'm assuming it's a reverse mowing lockout? That I will be bypassing for sure. Seat presence and brake switch will be repaired. Noticed the driveshaft has a scribe line and another spring pin hole under the tunnel cover- assuming that's the cut line for creeper tractors? I was considering swapping the creeper from the 1200 into it.
The shifter is broken. Pulled it off, took it apart. It's broken in what appears to be typical fashion. I can't tell if it has had a prior repair or not. The 1/2 round part under the tower seized in the tower housing (not real bad) but I'm thinking that's why it broke.
I had rebuilt the carb a few weeks back. While I was doing that, the little spring that holds the needle flung off on me. My carb kit had 2 spring types, with similar, but slightly different needles. I put it together with the one I thought it should be, (and I'm sure you've all guessed) it ended up needing the other one. So after watching the gas pour out of the throat of the carb, it was back off and try again. Also I cleaned the fuel tank, installed a new valve, bushing, fuel lines, and filter.
Got it started up without too much trouble. Revs up ok I think. With no tunnel cover/fender I didn't want to race it too hard, although the shaft felt solid. Clutch was free. Didn't get to drive it as I have the shifter off (it's on jackstands). PTO starts in the switch 'start' position, then clicks off when in the 'on' position, so I'll have to look into that.
Sorry no pics.....I'm sure I'll have some time with it tomorrow. Excited to finally get going on this thing, and thankfully it seems to run good.
I swapped the rear tires off my parts 1200, it had 8.50 turfs. I thought it odd, being the 1050 was a baseline machine, that it would have 10.50s, but anyway I switched them over. Once it's going I'll see if I want to swap back or not.
The lift handle was missing the little knob that slides to the side to float. Noted it was threaded, found a screw that would fit, threadlocked it, and installed it. Built it up with some electrical tape. I'll see how it holds up until I can find the real thing, or something better.
Pulled the fenders. It needs a pressure washing real bad, and definitely a rearend reseal. Made sure the brakes were free, and functional. Noticed the brake switch and seat switch are bypassed. Noticed it has a switch by the shifter-I'm assuming it's a reverse mowing lockout? That I will be bypassing for sure. Seat presence and brake switch will be repaired. Noticed the driveshaft has a scribe line and another spring pin hole under the tunnel cover- assuming that's the cut line for creeper tractors? I was considering swapping the creeper from the 1200 into it.
The shifter is broken. Pulled it off, took it apart. It's broken in what appears to be typical fashion. I can't tell if it has had a prior repair or not. The 1/2 round part under the tower seized in the tower housing (not real bad) but I'm thinking that's why it broke.
I had rebuilt the carb a few weeks back. While I was doing that, the little spring that holds the needle flung off on me. My carb kit had 2 spring types, with similar, but slightly different needles. I put it together with the one I thought it should be, (and I'm sure you've all guessed) it ended up needing the other one. So after watching the gas pour out of the throat of the carb, it was back off and try again. Also I cleaned the fuel tank, installed a new valve, bushing, fuel lines, and filter.
Got it started up without too much trouble. Revs up ok I think. With no tunnel cover/fender I didn't want to race it too hard, although the shaft felt solid. Clutch was free. Didn't get to drive it as I have the shifter off (it's on jackstands). PTO starts in the switch 'start' position, then clicks off when in the 'on' position, so I'll have to look into that.
Sorry no pics.....I'm sure I'll have some time with it tomorrow. Excited to finally get going on this thing, and thankfully it seems to run good.
Comment