Project 1050

[SS5150]

Finally got started on my 1050 tractor. Pulled the grill and side panels off & left them in the shed, then wheeled it into the garage. Naturally it had a flat rear tire. Previously I tubed both the fronts, so they held up.
I swapped the rear tires off my parts 1200, it had 8.50 turfs. I thought it odd, being the 1050 was a baseline machine, that it would have 10.50s, but anyway I switched them over. Once it's going I'll see if I want to swap back or not.
The lift handle was missing the little knob that slides to the side to float. Noted it was threaded, found a screw that would fit, threadlocked it, and installed it. Built it up with some electrical tape. I'll see how it holds up until I can find the real thing, or something better.
Pulled the fenders. It needs a pressure washing real bad, and definitely a rearend reseal. Made sure the brakes were free, and functional. Noticed the brake switch and seat switch are bypassed. Noticed it has a switch by the shifter-I'm assuming it's a reverse mowing lockout? That I will be bypassing for sure. Seat presence and brake switch will be repaired. Noticed the driveshaft has a scribe line and another spring pin hole under the tunnel cover- assuming that's the cut line for creeper tractors? I was considering swapping the creeper from the 1200 into it.
The shifter is broken. Pulled it off, took it apart. It's broken in what appears to be typical fashion. I can't tell if it has had a prior repair or not. The 1/2 round part under the tower seized in the tower housing (not real bad) but I'm thinking that's why it broke.
I had rebuilt the carb a few weeks back. While I was doing that, the little spring that holds the needle flung off on me. My carb kit had 2 spring types, with similar, but slightly different needles. I put it together with the one I thought it should be, (and I'm sure you've all guessed) it ended up needing the other one. So after watching the gas pour out of the throat of the carb, it was back off and try again. Also I cleaned the fuel tank, installed a new valve, bushing, fuel lines, and filter.
Got it started up without too much trouble. Revs up ok I think. With no tunnel cover/fender I didn't want to race it too hard, although the shaft felt solid. Clutch was free. Didn't get to drive it as I have the shifter off (it's on jackstands). PTO starts in the switch 'start' position, then clicks off when in the 'on' position, so I'll have to look into that.
Sorry no pics.....I'm sure I'll have some time with it tomorrow. Excited to finally get going on this thing, and thankfully it seems to run good.

[bamafan]

Brian sounds like you have a good handle on the things it needs to get her going. Good luck

[Diesel Doc]

How about some pictures?

[jaynjeep]

Sounds good Brian! I know on the older ones the scribe mark is where you cut the shaft for the creeper.. I would assume that to be the same on a later 1050.

You know what we want though!!


Keep us posted!

[SS5150]

Here it is. Didn't do much with it today, although I did run it to town to spray off all the grease. Need to change the oil. Somehow the firewall grommet disappeared, I'll need to find one. Trying to decide if I should do the creeper or not; I intend this to be a cultivator tractor, if I swap the 1200 reared entirely I can run a tiller too, although in the past I've used my 782 w/hyd lift. I do have a sleeve hitch and spring assist here, but no lower bracket (it's the alum rearend)

[J-Mech]

If you plan to cultivate with it, you will need the creeper. Believe me. I use mine for cultivating. 1st is too fast on small crops. I set my sweeps like 6" apart (3" from the row on each side). It's tight. The larger the crop gets, the faster you can go. You need to throw as much dirt over the weeds in the row that you can as the crop grows. You will also need that creeper for a tiller. 3rd creeper is about right, unless you are going over plowed ground, then you want slower. Otherwise, it beats you to death. I made an adapter for the tiller for the aluminum rears. I can post a pic if you want. (Pic might be in my profile, as I've uploaded it here before.)

Yes, the scribe line is where to cut the shaft for a creeper.

When you get it running, tell us if the rear end howls like all the 1050's do. Haven't seen one yet, or talked to other owners that say it doesn't. It's a factory mistake. Drive shaft is too long, and preloads the input shaft bearing. Shaft needs shortened to make it stop. Can't be good on the bearings.

Keep going!

Oh.... and as far as all the switches go: Brake pedal switch is just like any other cub. Seat switch too. The one at the gearshift is a reverse lockout. PTO shuts off in reverse. If the PTO won't stay on, take a peek at the seat switch, and the reverse switch. Either one not working correctly affects the PTO.

Nice work so far!!!

[Rescue11]

I'd just do it road gear. Wide open throttle. We have lots of work to do

[SS5150]

Jon, I pulled the seat switch and brake switch off this evening and ohmed them out. I don't know spec but continuity in 1 position and open in the other, so they should be good.
Tractor is running, I just have to get the shift lever fixed. Really want to drive it prior to going after the creeper.
What do you have for a cultivator? I'm kind of disappointed in the new Brinlys, as the sweeps/points aren't replaceable. Nothing used comes up much around here.
Still want to go through the steering/steering gear. Probably front wheel bearings too. I think I want to find an old school CCC emblem for the grill even though it isn't correct. And I swapped on an IH steering center cap already.
Enjoying this tractor so far! Can't wait to use it.

[J-Mech]

Brian, I don't know what my cultivator started out as "officially". My dad converted it from an old walking tractor for use on the Cub Cadet 71 (or maybe even an Original) that grandad had. (And now I have.) He did it when he was in Jr. High. When I was in Jr. High, we dug it out of the weeds and I repurposed it again. When I got to a place where I could have a garden again, I went up and dug it out of the shed and put it back into service.

Here it is on the 1050:

389.jpg




Pretty sure it was a an old Simplicity, because this is exactly what it used to look like.
(Pic taken from the internet and cropped.)


9155-simplicity-walk-behind-tractor-001.jpg

[zippy1]

Doing good Brian.
As Jon wrote. If you're going to use it for cultivating, and possibly tilling, you'll want the creepy gear.
Keep the updates coming. We like these kinda threads.

[Shrewcub]

Looks good Brian! I thought about buying the one Tim had a few years ago. I still kind of want one.

[SS5150]

Well, stopped at my local dealer tonight after work. They're going to weld my shifter for me tomorrow. Shifter gaskets aren't available so I picked up a roll of gasket material and I'll make my own some time this week. Once I have that together I should be able to drive it a little bit to give it a full assessment (read- does the tranny actually work).
Thanks for the kind words everyone.

[zippy1]

Just get yourself a tube of Permatex Ultra Black Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker. Works for me...
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[J-Mech]

That's what I'd do too.....

[SS5150]

I probably have some of that floating around. If not I definitely do at work.

[SS5150]

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Did a little work on the 1050 last evening. My Cub dealer welded my shift lever earlier in the week, so I put it back together, made a couple gaskets, and reassembled it. Fired it up and drove it a few feet in the garage (I wasn't brave enough to run it around with no fenders or tunnel cover).
Also gave it a fresh oil change, and a new grommet through the firewall for the fuel line.
Next I'd like to get going on my creeper install. Need to pull it out of the 1200 and go through it.
Ordered a lower sleeve hitch bracket yesterday, and I need to pick up some HyTran. Maybe Saturday for that.

[J-Mech]

Glad you got it running! Hope the dealers weld repair holds. Unless the dealer is a competent welder, I probably would have taken it to a welding shop.

Maybe I said this already, I don't remember, but if you put the sleeve hitch on it from the 1200 you will need a different lift link "rod". The one that runs from the lift handle to the 3pt. 1050 takes the same one as a 582. Don't think the 1200 one will work.