1050 rearend

[olds45512]

Getting ready to do some work on my 1050 and one of the issues I'd like to take care of is the really loud whining sound coming from the rear end. I've heard this is a common issue with the aluminum 3 speed so I'm curious if anybody has figured out what causes it? Worst case I will drop in a cast iron rear but would like to keep it original is I can.

[J-Mech]

I have. It's the thrust load on the input shaft. The driveshaft pushes back too hard on the input shaft and loads the bearing with a load it wasn't made for. Remove the driveshaft and grind off the end at the trans until it isn't pushing on it. Now, when you disengage the clutch, it will pull the shaft back and the noise may return, but only while hoding the clutch down.

[Arnie Cunningham]

Johns got it. The one you sent me Tim, (which was oem), has a locating pointed end on the trans end. I had to pry mine pretty well towards the engine when I installed it. Flexed the rubber mounts some and lots of preload on it, makes the exact noise. I’d be curious to know if the 1806 has the same issue?

[SS5150]

The 1806 coupler (on the creeper side) has a steel ball in it. My 1050 coupler did not- now I don't know if it was supposed to, but mine did not- but when I installed my creeper, I cut the driveshaft on the scribe line, and ended up having trouble with clutch engagement/disengagement. I know after cutting, my driveshaft would telescope into the rear coupler, and the clutch would stay engaged. I ended up putting the steel ball from the 1806 into the coupler to actually stop the travel of the driveshaft and allow the clutch to release. I'm almost positive that after measuring the cut off piece of driveshaft it was more than 4.75", including the taper. Eventually I'll get a driveshaft made up, or make one up myself to get it correct.
I do have an 1806 clutch/driveshaft setup out in the garage but I don't recall if it has a taper or not.

Olds do you have a 3pt or a sleeve hitch set up on yours?

[olds45512]

The 1806 coupler (on the creeper side) has a steel ball in it. My 1050 coupler did not- now I don't know if it was supposed to, but mine did not- but when I installed my creeper, I cut the driveshaft on the scribe line, and ended up having trouble with clutch engagement/disengagement. I know after cutting, my driveshaft would telescope into the rear coupler, and the clutch would stay engaged. I ended up putting the steel ball from the 1806 into the coupler to actually stop the travel of the driveshaft and allow the clutch to release. I'm almost positive that after measuring the cut off piece of driveshaft it was more than 4.75", including the taper. Eventually I'll get a driveshaft made up, or make one up myself to get it correct.
I do have an 1806 clutch/driveshaft setup out in the garage but I don't recall if it has a taper or not.

Olds do you have a 3pt or a sleeve hitch set up on yours?

Sleeve hitch. I drilled holes in the lower mount off a cast iron rear and then welded on brackets that run up to the axle tube bolts, haven't had any issues after 3 plow days.

[olds45512]

I will try grinding the shaft down and see if that helps.

[SS5150]

Ok just looked. No taper on 1806 shaft. Has a small divot, I'm assuming to keep the steel ball in place.

Good to know on the sleeve hitch bracket. I bought one drilled for both style rearends, with the ears to the tubes. It seems pretty solid. Can't wait to turn over some ground with this thing.

[olds45512]

I got a chance to work on the 1050 today and the driveshaft was about a 1/16 to long so I shortened it and it helped some but it still has more whine than I'd like. I called my buddy and will hopefully be going to pickup a cast rearend this weekend.

[J-Mech]

Don't get rid of that aluminum one. If you don't want it, I'd like to have one..... I've got an idea to build something out of it.